Skincare: Where do you start? (And why you shouldn’t be intimidated.)

by Gaby Nieves

Human skin is susceptible to various conditions — some hormonal, some bacterial, some caused by the Sun, and others caused by age. While the root cause of some skin imperfections aren’t as easy to treat as others — like acne that’s a direct result of hormonal fluctuations from puberty or menstruation —  most are easily treatable with the right products, if not entirely preventable. Whether there’s an element of your skin that you’d like to fix, like texture or hyperpigmentation, or you’re someone with clear skin looking to protect it from future damage, having a skincare routine is a must. But if skincare is something you’ve never looked into, where do you start?

Step 1: Know your skin type.

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Before you can start adding skincare products to your shopping cart, you have to know what skin type you have: Normal, dry, oily, combination, or sensitive. After all, almost every skincare product is created with a specific skin type in mind. Yes, if you go to your local drugstore or beauty supply, you’ll find a couple of products labeled “For all skin types,” but if you can figure out the specific necessities of your skin, it will be easier to create a skincare routine specially tailored to your needs.

Luckily, you don’t have to visit a dermatologist to determine your skin type. One quick and cost-effective method, as described by dermatologist Dr. Sacharitha Bowers, MD, is to “observe what your skin does when left alone.” She said to try this:

“The next time you have time to relax at home, wash your face using a gentle cleanser, pat it dry with a towel and then simply let it be without putting any added product on it. After about thirty minutes, take a look at your skin and see what you notice:

●     Oily skin will look and feel shiny and might feel slick

●     Dry skin will look and feel flaky, finely scaly and dry

●     Combination skin will look shiny only in the T-zone (forehead, nose), but may look and feel dry on your cheeks, chin and around jawline

●     Normal skin should look and feel neither too shiny, slick, flaky or dry

●     Sensitive skin might look a little pink, or may it look like normal skin, but you notice it reacts or gets red easily with change in environment, weather conditions or use of products”

When I started to experience a lot of acne breakouts in middle school, my parents and I were very uneducated about skin health. One misconception we believed in was that acne was caused by excess oil in the skin, so since I had acne, my skin type was oily. This was only half true. Yes, when your skin produces too much oil (or sebum), you’ll likely get more clogged pores and breakouts. In my case, however, a majority of my acne was a result of the hormonal changes my body was experiencing as a result of puberty.

It wasn’t until years later, when I stopped using every “oil drying” acne treatment my parents could get their hands on, that I decided to see what my skin did when I “left it alone.” Lo and behold, when I didn’t put any products on it, I learned that my T-zone was quite shiny and slick, while my cheeks and the areas around my mouth felt dry and flaky. I have combination skin, not oily! If I had known my proper skin type, I would’ve enjoyed the sensation of not having consistently bright red, sensitive cheeks much earlier by not putting products designed for oily skin on the non-oily areas of my face.

Step 2: Get a cleanser.

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After learning about your skin type, physically starting a morning and evening skincare routine can sound intimidating. This intimidation isn’t unwarranted, with the way some corners of social media push the idea that you need a 10-step skincare routine, and won’t see results if you don’t adhere to one. But this is far from the truth. While having a 10-step routine can undoubtedly have positive effects on the skin, so does a simple, 3-step routine. Many dermatologists — like Dr. Angelo Landriscina, MD, FAAD — have found that “more isn’t always merrier.” And the most widely accepted, first-step “building-block product” for any skincare routine is a facial cleanser.

Cleansing should be the first step of both your morning and night routine. Your face sheds skin cells and produces sebum throughout your waking and sleeping hours, so cleansing twice daily provides a blank canvas for your other products to sit on. In a joint interview with Dr. Landriscina, Dr. Morgana Colombo, MD, suggests opting for a cleanser designed for your skin type. (See, I told you it’s important!):

“For example, people with oily or acne-prone skin often do best with a foaming cleanser, whereas people with normal or dry skin typically prefer gentle, nonfoaming options.”

To properly cleanse, use clean hands to wet your face with lukewarm water, apply your cleanser, and lather for about 30 seconds. Then, lightly pat away excess water with a towel, not rubbing your skin too hard during cleansing or drying.

Step 3: Moisturize.

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While cleansing your skin does unclog your pores, it can tend to strip the skin’s outermost layer (stratum corneum) of hydration, which this layer needs a lot of to perform its protective functions. So, when your skin is thirsty, you must quench it — AKA, moisturize.

Dermatologist Dr. Joshua Zeichner, M.D. stated, “Any good moisturizer should contain a combination of hydrating (humectant) ingredients that will draw water into the skin and more occlusive ingredients to seal that hydration in.” But, of course, all roads lead back to your skin type. For the most effective skin protection and results, you need to use the ingredients your skin needs. According to Dr. Zeichner:

“If you have dry skin, for example, you may want to use a thicker moisturizer with ingredients like hyaluronic acid, which is a powerful humectant, along with ceramides.”

“But for those with oily or acne-prone skin, it will be especially important to look for products that are noncomedogenic or say “oil-free” on the label. You might also want to look into lighter gel cream formulas.”

To get the best hydration-locking results out of your moisturizer, use clean hands to apply moisturizer to your face shortly after cleansing, when your skin is still slightly damp (but not soaking wet). The damp surface of your skin will allow for the product to soak in more effectively.

Step 4: Don’t forget sunscreen.

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The final step of a beginner-friendly skincare routine! If you’re going outside, wear sunscreen. Yes, even if it’s an overcast day. UV rays can penetrate through clouds, and UV rays are one of your skin’s greatest external enemies. Let’s say you’re keeping up with cleansing and moisturizing, protecting your skin from excessive oils, dead skin, and dirt. You may not have breakouts, but thanks to the Sun’s UV rays, you’ll be at the mercy of premature aging (AKA, wrinkles), sunburn, and, worst of all, skin cancer. Your greatest defense and preventative best friend: SPF.

Dermatologist Dr. Anna Lien-Lun Chien, MD, has explained the basics and importance of sunscreen and SPF as follows:

“Sun protection factor (SPF) represents a sunscreen’s ability to protect against a specific portion of ultraviolet (UV) light called UVB. UVB rays are responsible for sunburns and skin cancer. There are two other portions of UV light: UVC rays (which don’t pass the earth’s atmosphere) and UVA rays (which are also responsible for skin cancer as well as skin aging). A sunscreen that is broad spectrum will protect against both UVB and UVA rays.”

Realistically, you should apply sunscreen all over your body. In terms of your skincare routine, however, use clean hands to apply a generous amount of product evenly across your face and neck, a couple of minutes after applying moisturizer (but before you step outside for the day). For sufficient day-to-day protection, use sunscreen with at least 30 SPF. If you’ll be outside on a sunny day for an extended period, use 60 SPF or higher. And don’t forget to reapply!

Of course, you don’t need sunscreen to sleep at night, so this step only applies to your morning skincare routine.

Step 5: Have better skin than yesterday.

Image source: https://www.pexels.com/photo/selective-focus-photo-of-smiling-man-in-white-dress-shirt-3764545/

Using the information and guidelines provided above, your beginner-friendly skincare routine should look something like this:

Morning:

●           Cleanser

●           Moisturizer

●           Sunscreen

Night:

●           Cleanser

●           Moisturizer

It can look as simple as that! Effective skincare isn’t rocket science — it’s skincare. If you’re willing to take on an extra step and have a specific skin concern you’d like to target (like discoloration, dullness, or uneven texture), consider sliding in an additional “Spot Treatment/Serum” step before you moisturize at night. You’ll want to research what ingredients will best target your concerns, but generally, treatments should only be done at night, since they tend to increase the skin’s sensitivity to the Sun.

Taking care of your skin can help you (and your future self) feel and look better, not to mention protect you from preventative skin diseases. Lucky for you, you now know exactly where to start.